The raw and beautiful mango

Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu

This article is devoted entirely to raw mangoes and to my friend Deepali who lives in Pune, Maharashtra. She cooks like a dream and I always call her when I am in despair as to what to cook that day. We exchange recipes on WhatsApp, instead of ‘good morning’ messages.

So, it all began when Deepali sent me a photograph of a sumptuous thali meal she served to a common friend of ours on WhatsApp, with a message, “Only that stuff on the left is of interest to you, the rest is fish,” she wrote.

Everything looked Insta worthy, but since I am vegetarian I obediently zoomed into this ‘stuff’ and demanded to know what it was.

It was kairicha thecha, or spicy raw mango chutney. My heart leapt in excitement. I was introduced to thecha just at the beginning of the lockdown. That was also the time I had just started Netflix binging and was watching this dark, brooding detective in a crime series set in Wales. The thecha was exactly like him, I thought, dark, brooding and hot! While that thecha was made with green chillies and garlic, this one had raw mangoes.

Also Read: Puthandu Vazhuthugal: Neem flowers, jaggery and raw mangoes on Tamil New Year

This is the season that celebrates raw mango. While Deepali made kairicha thecha for her dinner party, she also plans to make kairichi dal (lentil cooked with raw mango). “Traditionally, women are invited to each other's homes in the month of Chaitra (March-April), and they exchange haldi and kumkum (turmeric and vermillion). It is usually on these occasions we also make kairichi dal,” she said.

It is amazing how we find ways and means to celebrate each and every season on our calendar with seasonal gifts from Mother Nature. So of course, everyone is seeing, smelling and cooking with raw mangoes now.

Today is dedicated to two less known raw mango recipes from Maharashtra. They are non fussy, do not involve slaving over the stove in the heat forever and of course, they are delicious.

Also Read: As Spring Goes Missing

Kairichi Dal

1. Soak Chana Dal overnight and coarsely grind it along with a little salt, and green chillies

2. Grate about a cupful of raw mangoes. -Mix the two gently.

3. Then temper mustard, hing and chipped green chillies in a spoonful of groundnut oil and drizzle over the dal and mango mixture.

4. If you want to fancy it up, garnish with grated coconut and finely chopped coriander leaves.

Kairicha Thecha

1. Grate enough raw mango to fill a cup or two. Soak it in water for about 10 minutes and squeeze dry. (Don’t throw away the water. Use it to make panna with powdered cardamom, kesar, sugar and salt).

2. Split and dry roast green chillies (as much heat as you can take) on an open flame and pound it along with a little fresh coriander leaves, some grated coconut, salt and a dash of sugar (the sugar saves you from catching fire!)

3. Temper with mustard and hing and pour over the thecha. You are ready to go!

4. Deepali sent me a raw mango and cucumber and groundnut koshimbir recipe to cool me down. That is coming up next.

Happy New Year.